How to assemble a bike in 10 steps -

Getting a new bike is one of the most exciting days of the year, so don’t let the hassle of assembling it spoil the fun.

In recent years, online bike sales have surged. While buying a bike online gives you a wider selection, it also means you’ll need to handle the final assembly when it arrives in a box.

Shopping at your local bike shop has its perks—like test rides and expert mechanics who can help put your bike together—but online retailers and direct-sale brands often offer great deals.

If you decide to buy your bike online, assembling it at home is fairly easy. This guide provides clear step-by-step instructions to help you put your new bike together, along with some handy tips for home mechanics.

Table of Contents

1. Unboxing

To open the box, stand it upright and run your hand along the underside of the top flap to lift it open.

Before taking out the bike, use a flat-head screwdriver to remove any staples from the box lid to avoid injury or damage to your bike. The front wheel and handlebars are usually removed for shipping. Gently lift the bike, front wheel, and handlebars from the box, and take off the protective packaging.

Hold on to the packaging—it could be useful if you need to return the bike or for future travel.

Be sure to check the box for the manual, paperwork, or any small parts that might be packed separately. Keep them safe, as you’ll need them during assembly.

2. Tools for the job

The tools you’ll need will vary based on how much assembly your bike requires, but generally, you’ll need the following:

Allen (hex) keys
A small torque wrench or torque key (optional)
Bike grease
Carbon assembly paste (if your bike has carbon parts)
Pump

If your bike has any carbon fiber parts, it’s crucial to use a torque wrench to apply the right amount of force (measured in Newton Metres, or Nm, usually indicated on the part) when tightening bolts.

Carbon assembly paste, which has a gritty texture for added grip, should be used instead of regular bike grease when dealing with carbon components, like the seatpost.

Some brands may include basic tools with the bike. For example, the bike we’re highlighting here comes with a basic torque wrench, different bits for the wrench, and carbon assembly paste.

3. Insert the seatpost

Unpack the seatpost (which usually has the saddle attached) and apply a small amount of carbon assembly paste (if it’s a carbon seatpost) or grease (if it’s metal) around the inside of the seat tube. Then, insert the seatpost and secure the clamp. We’ll adjust the saddle height later.

Use a clean rag to wipe away any excess paste.

On the bike we’re assembling, the seatpost clamp-bolt is located at the back of the seat tube, between the seatstays. Be sure to check the frame, clamp, or manual for the correct torque setting when tightening the seatpost clamp.

4. Attach the handlebar

Next, it’s time to attach the handlebar.

Many newer bikes, especially mid-to-high-end road bikes, have integrated cockpits where the handlebar and stem are one unit. If that’s the case with your bike, refer to the manual to make sure you install it properly.

For this bike’s integrated Canyon Aerocockpit, the base of the stem simply slots onto the steerer tube. You then tighten the two stem bolts to the recommended torque setting.

Make sure the handlebars are straight before fully tightening the bolts.

If your bike has a two-piece stem and handlebar setup, you’ll need to:

– Remove the front plate of the stem (this is the part that holds the handlebar to the stem).
– Insert the handlebar and tighten the face-plate bolts to the specified torque setting. Make sure to tighten the bolts evenly, leaving an equal gap between each bolt and the faceplate (though this may vary, so double-check your stem).

– With the bolts at the base of the stem loosened, tighten the top bolt until you feel some resistance. This bolt often screws into a star nut or bung inside the steerer tube, which preloads the headset. There’s no specific torque setting for this bolt because it varies by bike—if it’s too loose, the fork will shift within the headset; if too tight, it will damage the bearings. Check for any movement where the frame meets the stem spacers.

– Align the stem so it lines up with the front tire.

– Finally, tighten the two stem bolts evenly to the manufacturer’s recommended torque setting.

These steps assume you don’t need to adjust the handlebar height. For more details on fine-tuning handlebar positioning or adjusting headset preload, check out our guide on how to adjust handlebar height.

5. Insert the front wheel

Start by inserting the front wheel into the fork.

Generally, there are two main types of axles used on bikes:

– Thru-axle: This type varies in diameter and length depending on the bike model and bolts the wheel directly into threads in the fork or frame.

– Quick-release skewer: This is a narrow skewer that goes through the wheel. The fork and rear frame have open slots (called dropouts) at the bottom that rest over the hub’s axle. The skewer is secured with a nut on its threaded end. After threading the skewer into the nut, use the lever to apply the final tension, clamping the frame onto the hub axle. You should apply enough force to leave an imprint on your palm when closing the lever. Ensure the wheel is straight, as misalignment in the dropouts can cause the brakes to rub against the wheel.

If your bike has rim brakes, check the front wheel’s orientation by finding the rotation/direction arrow on the sidewall. If it has disc brakes, remember to lightly grease the thru-axle threads before inserting it through the fork and wheel.

6. Inflate the tyres

Pump up the tires, and to begin, compare the pressure with the recommended range indicated on the sidewall of each tire.

7. Install pedals

Although your bike might come with basic pedals, many cyclists prefer to upgrade to their own, whether they opt for flat or clipless pedals.

Before installation, apply grease to the pedal threads, then use a pedal spanner or Allen key to secure them (depending on the type of pedal).

Remember, pedal threads are specific to each side, and both tighten in a forward direction. If you’re not sure which pedal goes where, look for the markings—L for left and R for right.

8. Set the saddle height

Make sure the saddle rail bolts are securely fastened, the saddle is level and aligned, and that it’s set at the right height for you.

Next, confirm that the seatpost clamp is tightened to the recommended specifications.

9. Final checks

While manufacturers or retailers typically set up the brakes and gears before shipping, it’s wise to conduct a final safety check and ensure the gears are properly indexed.

Additionally, this is a great time to photograph or record the frame’s serial number, which can be useful for bike insurance or warranty claims later on.

10. Go ride!

Take your bike for a test ride to spot any issues and break in the brakes.

Enjoy your ride!

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Daniel Brooks

My name is Daniel Brooks! I’m an avid cyclist, seasoned blogger, and passionate advocate for everything cycling. Not to boast, but I have a knack for balancing the challenges of life with my love for cycling. You could say I'm the type of person who lives and breathes bikes. I don’t just ride—I study the sport, analyzing riding techniques, understanding the effects of terrain and weather, and everything else that impacts performance on the road or trail.

Through my blog, I aim to share insights on the dedication, care, and attention cycling demands, whether you’re tackling a mountain pass, speeding along a smooth road, or refining your bike’s setup. My mission is to provide well-researched, practical guidance that makes cycling more enjoyable, safer, and accessible for everyone with a passion for two wheels.