Tubeless tires are becoming increasingly popular for good reason—they allow for safe operation at lower pressures, enhancing comfort, and eliminate the need for an inner tube by using sealant to seal small punctures.
Setting up tubeless tires might seem daunting to newcomers, but it’s straightforward with the right knowledge.
In this guide, we’ll provide a step-by-step process for setting up your tubeless tires. While we demonstrate using a road bike tire, the method is the same for gravel and mountain bike tires as well.
Table of Contents
What you need for a tubeless setup
Before diving into how to set up your tubeless tires, it’s helpful to understand the components involved in a tubeless system and the role each one plays.
Tubeless tape
Tubeless tape is placed on the rim bed to create an airtight seal, preventing air from leaking through the spoke holes.
This tape is typically designed for specific bike types—road, gravel, or mountain—and comes in various sizes to match your rim width.
Some rims may come pre-taped, and there are even options available, like those from Campagnolo, that don’t require tape at all because they lack spoke holes.
Tubeless valves
A tubeless valve functions similarly to a standard Presta valve used with inner tubes. It’s typically attached to a conical bung that fits into the valve hole.
When you tighten the lockring, it compresses the bung around the valve hole and tape, creating an airtight seal.
A quality tubeless valve should feature a removable core, which aids in initial inflation and seating. If the core gets clogged with sealant, you can easily clean or replace it without needing to unseat the tire.
Many tubeless valves come with a valve core removal tool, but if yours doesn’t, you can buy one separately. Additionally, some high-quality bike multi-tools include this handy tool.
Sealant
Sealant is a liquid specifically formulated to fill small punctures in a tire’s casing, often before you even realize there’s been a leak. Most sealants are latex-based.
For a detailed explanation of how tubeless sealant functions, check out our guide on the best tubeless sealants.
A tubeless-ready rim
Tubeless-ready road rims look similar to standard clincher rims at first glance, but a closer look reveals subtle differences. The rim’s hook profile, where the tire bead connects, is slightly modified, and the rim well is often a bit deeper.
A few rims, primarily from Mavic, adhere to UST (Universal System Tubeless) standards, which require that the rim be sealable without tape and feature a hole-free rim bed.
These UST rims are relatively rare, so you’ll more commonly find rims with a traditional drilled bed.
While hooked rims have been the standard for years, hookless rims are gaining popularity in road and gravel applications. Hookless rims have straight, vertical sides instead of bead hooks and are typically designed for use with tubeless tires only.
If you have hookless rims, make sure your tires are compatible and do not exceed 73 psi when inflating, as this is the maximum pressure recommended by ETRTO.
Tubeless tyre
While tubeless tires may appear similar to standard clincher tires, there are subtle yet crucial differences between them.
The primary distinctions lie in the dimensions and profile of the bead. Tubeless tire beads are typically slightly smaller or manufactured to tighter tolerances, and they are designed to interlock specifically with the unique hook of a tubeless rim.
Determining if a tire is tubeless-compatible is fairly easy, as manufacturers often label them directly— for instance, WTB tubeless tires feature a graphic indicating their “TCS” (tubeless-compatible system).
Most performance mountain and gravel bike tires are tubeless-compatible, but this isn’t always true for road tires, so be sure to check the labeling.
Tubeless pump (recommended but not always essential)
To properly seat some tubeless tires, you might need a quick burst of air. Tubeless pumps have an air chamber that you first inflate, allowing you to release all the air into the tire at once.
If you don’t have a tubeless pump, a regular track pump can often do the trick for many tires. If you’re still having trouble, consider using an air compressor, which you can typically find at gas stations. Just remember to use a Presta valve adapter with the compressor.
We recommend avoiding CO2 inflators, as they may not work well with the sealant.
How to fit and set up tubeless tyres
1. Prepare and tape the rim
Before applying tape, make sure your rim bed is completely clean, dry, and free of any residue from old tape or sealant.
It’s best to avoid mechanical methods for removing residue, except for the most stubborn spots. Instead, use isopropyl alcohol and a clean rag to soften any leftover glue. Some brands, like Muc-Off, offer specific sealant removers that can be helpful.
Start a couple of spokes past the valve hole and place the tape in the rim well, applying about 6 to 8 inches while ensuring it’s centered and kept tight.
Once you’ve laid down this initial section, the tape should hold itself in place. I prefer to grip the wheel around the hub and rotate it away from me as I apply more tape, maintaining tension and keeping it centered.
Continue wrapping the tape around the rim, again keeping it taut and avoiding the edges. When you reach the starting point, overlap by about 4 inches, cut the tape, and press it down firmly with your thumbs to eliminate any bubbles.
Afterward, inspect the tape for any damage. If you find any, it’s best to remove it and start over rather than attempting to patch it.
Getting this part right is crucial to avoid issues later on, as many failed tubeless setups stem from improperly installed tape.
2. Fit the tubeless valve
Begin by locating the valve hole on the rim and gently pushing a small prick from the inside outward to mark its exact position. Then, from the outside, create a small hole.
Insert the valve through this hole and allow it to “cut” the hole to the correct size. While some suggest using a Stanley knife to cut the tape, this tends to tear it rather than create a clean circular hole.
Press down on the valve with your thumb to deform the bung, then screw on the lockring. It’s a good idea to apply a tiny dab of grease to the lockring for easier removal later on.
Unless the manufacturer advises otherwise, it’s best to avoid using tools to tighten the valve, as this can often distort any O-rings.
3. Fit the tubeless tyre
Installing a road tubeless tire is similar to fitting a standard clincher, but it can be trickier due to the tighter bead.
The good news is that you can use tire levers more freely since there’s no inner tube to worry about. However, be cautious, as it’s still easy to nick or damage the tubeless tape, which would require you to start over.
Once both sides of the tire are on, gently massage it to ensure it sits evenly in the well around the rim and aligns properly with the valve.
If you’re struggling with the last section of the tire’s bead, try pushing the tire inward around the rest of its circumference. This can help fit it into the rim bead and eliminate any slack in that final part.
Another helpful tip is to apply a small dab of the tubeless sealant you plan to use on the tire sidewall, as this acts as a lubricant.
4. Add the tubeless sealant
However, if you’re working with a new tire and rim combination, it might be easier to add the sealant through the valve. You can do this using a syringe or a small applicator bottle.
Gently rotate the wheel to ensure the sealant coats the inside of the tire evenly.
5. Seat the tyre
It’s best to seat the tire with the valve core removed, as this provides the most direct airflow into the tire.
Attach your track pump and, with any luck, a few quick bursts of air will pop the tire into place.
If only one side or part of the tire seats, keep pumping until you hear several satisfying pings and the tire is fully seated around the rim. As mentioned earlier, you might need a tubeless pump or air compressor if you’re using a track pump.
Once the tire is seated, detach the pump head and put the valve core back in.
Add a bit more air, then shake and spin the tire vigorously to ensure the sealant coats the inside thoroughly. After that, inflate your tires to the recommended pressure.
Many tires come with witness marks to help you check if they are correctly seated.
We suggest taking a short ride after setup to help the sealant fully coat the tire.
How to maintain tubeless tyres
Generally, tubeless tires are set-and-forget, but you’ll need to periodically replenish the sealant since it can dry out over time. Different sealants have varying drying rates, so it’s a good idea to check your sealant levels every two to three months.
You can do this by either removing a small section of the tire’s bead to visually assess the sealant or by using a trimmed cable tie through the valve core as a makeshift dipstick.
If the sealant levels are low, you can either pour fresh sealant into the exposed part of the tire or inject it through the valve core. Once a year or every 18 months, it’s beneficial to completely remove the tire and clean everything thoroughly to eliminate any sealant that might have clogged inside.
Through my blog, I aim to share insights on the dedication, care, and attention cycling demands, whether you’re tackling a mountain pass, speeding along a smooth road, or refining your bike’s setup. My mission is to provide well-researched, practical guidance that makes cycling more enjoyable, safer, and accessible for everyone with a passion for two wheels.
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